CLARITY - 4 C's -Diamond Grading - Gold Diamond Jewellery Designing Chennai Institute Courses Training Aesera Academy

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AESERA  Jewellery DESIGNING ACADEMY

No 144/74, Eskay building, 3rd floor, 

Greams Road, Thousand Lights

Chennai,  Tamil Nadu

India,

Mobile: +91-9444100081,+91-9840689781

seshu.gopal@jewelrydesignacademy.com

CLARITY

When we speak of a diamond's clarity, we are referring to the presence of identifying characteristics on (blemishes) and within (inclusions) the stone. 

If you think about the incredible amount of pressure it takes to create a diamond and the fact that natural diamonds are not grown in a sterile laboratory, it's no surprise that most diamonds have flaws. 

Basically there are two types of flaws: inclusions and blemishes. Inclusions refer to internal flaws and blemishes refer to surface flaws. However, in the diamond grades listed below, you'll note that none of the grades include the term "blemish" -- for the purposes of grading diamonds, all flaws are called "inclusions." 

Inclusions include flaws such as air bubbles, cracks, and non-diamond minerals found in the diamond. Blemishes include scratches, pits, and chips. Some blemishes occur during the cutting processes (most often at the girdle). Diamonds with no or few inclusions and blemishes are more highly valued than those with less clarity because they are rarer. 

Because diamonds formed deep within the earth, under extreme heat and pressure, they often contain unique birthmarks, either internal (inclusions) or external (blemishes).

Every diamond is unique. None is absolutely perfect under 10× magnification, though some come close. Known as Flawless diamonds, these are exceptionally rare. Most jewelers have never even seen one.

 

For clarity grades F through SI, inclusions (internal flaws) are NOT visible to the naked eye.

FL Flawless  -  No internal or external flaws. Extremely rare.No inclusions or blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10× magnification

IF  Internally Flawless  - No inclusions and only blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10× magnification

VVS1 and VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included (two grades) - Inclusions are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10× magnification. 

VS1 and VS2  -Very Slightly Included  - Inclusions are clearly visible under 10× magnification but can be characterized as minor

SI1 and SI2 - Slightly Included - Inclusions are noticeable to a skilled grader using 10× magnification

For grades F through SI, a diamond's clarity grade has an impact on the diamond's value, not on the unmagnified diamond's appearance.

I1, I2, and I3 Included  - Inclusions are obvious under 10× magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance.

F-IF	VVS1-VVS2	VS1-VS2	SI1-SI2	I1-I2-I3

While the presence of these clarity characteristics (inclusions and blemishes) do lower the clarity grade of a diamond, they can also be viewed as proof of a diamond's identity. GIA certificates include what is known as a "plot" of a diamond's inclusions -- think of it as a "diamond fingerprint." Since no two diamonds are exactly the same, comparing the uniqueness of your diamond's clarity characteristics with the plot provided on the diamond certificate offers assurance that the diamond you pay for is the same diamond you receive.

In order to grade the clarity of a diamond, it is necessary to observe the number and nature of any internal characteristics in the stone as well as their size and position. This Diamond Clarity Grading is carried out using a loupe 10x under the experienced eye of laboratory gemologists. A diamond is said to be "Internally Flawless" when it presents no internal defects under 10x magnification.


Which Clarity Grade Should I Choose?

While Flawless diamonds are the rarest, a diamond does not have to be flawless to be stunning.
In fact, until you drop to the "I" grade, a diamond's clarity grade has an impact on the diamond's value, not on the unmagnified diamond's appearance.

Diamonds with VVS and VS grades are excellent choices for both value and appearance. 

More affordable (and still a great choice) are those diamonds which gemologists call "eye-clean" - diamonds with no inclusions visible to the naked eye. These diamonds are SI1 and SI2 and unless the recipient carries a 10X loupe (a strong jewelry magnifying glass), she won't see the inclusions.

As to I1-I3? Maybe when there's a diamond grade that's defined as "you can see the flaws just by looking at the diamond," nothing more needs to be said.

Okay, to be "fair" to I1-I3 -- not everyone notices visible flaws in a diamond. And not all "visible" flaws are "equally" visible -- think about the difference between dripping mustard on a starched white dress shirt and dripping mustard on a brightly-colored Hawaiian shirt (not that we think you have a lot of mustard dripping experience). Obviously, one shows up a lot more than the other -- visible diamond flaws are like that.

But if you choose to buy an I1-I3 diamond (which we don't really recommend), know that some people will look at it and immediately see the flaws -- and not just experienced jewelers.  

CUT - 4 C's of Diamond - Chennai Gold Institute Rhino Jewellery 3D CAD Designing Certificate Course Training School Aesera Academy

For Further Details contact 


AESERA  Jewellery DESIGNING ACADEMY

No 144/74, Eskay building, 3rd floor, 
Greams Road, Thousand Lights
Chennai,  Tamil Nadu
India,
Mobile: +91-9444100081,+91-9840689781

seshu.gopal@jewelrydesignacademy.com

Diamond Grading Terminology

A diamond's cost is based on the characteristics known as the "4 C's". Clarity, Colour and Cut (proportion) are the quality elements which together with the Carat Weight determine the value of a stone.

The closer a diamond grades to the left of one or all of these scales the rarer and the more costly it will be. While clarity is frequently assumed to be the most important factor of all the "C's", in fact, colour and cut (especially cut) have a more profound affect on the visual appearance of a diamond.

Diamond Anatomy 

Wondering what on earth is the diamond's pavilion? Table? Culet? The graphic and supporting text below explain the various "parts" of a diamond. 

• Diameter 
  The width of the diamond as measured through the girdle.
• Table 
  This is the large, flat top facet of a diamond.
• Crown 
  The upper portion of a cut gemstone, above the girdle.
• Girdle 
  The narrow rim of a diamond that separates the crown from the pavilion. It is the largest diameter to any part of the stone.
• Pavilion 
  The lower portion of the diamond, below the girdle. It is sometimes referred to as the base.
• Culet 
  The tiny facet on the pointed bottom of the pavilion, which is the portion of a cut gem below the girdle.
• Depth 
  The height of a gemstone, from the culet to the table.

CUT

Cut is the factor that fuels a diamond’s fire, sparkle and brilliance.

The traditional 58 facets in a round brilliant diamond, each precisely cut and defined, are as small as two millimeters in diameter. But without this precision, a diamond wouldn’t be nearly as beautiful. The allure of a particular diamond depends more on cut than anything else.
An understanding of diamond cut begins with the shape of a diamond. The standard round brilliant is the shape used in most diamond jewelry. All others are known as fancy shapes. Traditional fancy shapes include the marquise, pear, oval and emerald cuts. Hearts, cushions, triangles and a variety of others are also gaining popularity in diamond jewelry.


As a value factor, though, cut refers to a diamond’s proportions, symmetry and polish. For example, look at a side view of the standard round brilliant. The major components, from top to bottom, are the crown, girdle and pavilion. A round brilliant cut diamond has 57 or 58 facets, the 58th being a tiny flat facet at the bottom of the pavilion that’s known as the culet. The large, flat facet on the top is the table.

The proportions of a diamond refer to the relationships between table size, crown angle and pavilion depth. A wide range of proportion combinations are possible, and these ultimately affect the stone’s interaction with light.
 How a diamond has been cut, polished, and to what proportions and symmetry, are of utmost importance since these factors determine the life, brilliance and dispersion of the diamond. If these cutting factors fall below standard, the appearance of the diamond will be adversely affected.

Cut
Cut, sometimes the forgotten "C", ensures that a given stone has maximum brilliance and sparkle which would not be the case were the stone cut for weight alone.
We use the following scale to grade a stone on it's overall appearance. The shows angles and percentages for round brilliant cut diamonds; but angles and percentages are for diamond cutters and graders. Simply put, when looking at a diamond, if it doesn't catch your eye or if it doesn't flash in the light, it's probably not well cut. Good cutting is what brings fire to the ice.

 

Diamond Cut

  Don't confuse the diamond's "cut" with the diamond's "shape." 

First, don't confuse diamond "cut" with "shape." Shape refers to the general outward appearance of the diamond, (such as round,emerald or pear). When a diamond jeweler (or a diamond certificate) says "cut," that's a reference to the diamond's reflective qualities, not the shape (or at least it should be, we have found that even some "jewelers" don't appear to know the difference between "cut" and "shape"). 
  The quality of the "cut" does make a difference in how a diamond looks. 

Diamond cut is perhaps the most important of the four Cs, so it is important to understand how this quality affects the properties and values of a diamond. A good cut gives a diamond its brilliance, which is that brightness that seems to come from the very heart of a diamond. The angles and finish of any diamond are what determine its ability to handle light, which leads to brilliance.
(See  Diamond Anatomy for an explanation of the terms used in the next paragraphs.)

As shown in the images below, when a diamond is well-cut, light enters through the table and travels to the pavilion where it reflects from one side to the other before reflecting back out of the diamond through the table and to the observer's eye. This light is the brilliance we mentioned, and it's this flashing, fiery effect that makes diamonds so mesmerizing. 

  
 

In a poorly cut diamond, the light that enters through the table reaches the facets and then 'leaks' out from the sides or bottom of the diamond rather than reflecting back to the eye. Less light reflected back to the eye means less brilliance. 


Good Proportions are Key
 
Most gemologists agree that the best cut diamonds are those that follow a set of formulae calculated to maximize brilliance. These formulae can be seen in a diamond's proportions, most importantly how the depth compares to the diameter, and how the diameter of the table compares to the diameter of the diamond.

If you opt to buy a diamond without an  certificate, spend some time looking at certified diamonds (where you know the Cut Grade) and train your eyes to identify the better cuts (by their "sparkle"). Cut does make a difference to the outward appearance of a diamond.  

However, the variance in the proportions between an Ideal Cut and a Poor Cut can be difficult to discern by the casual observer. 

Because cut is so important, several grading methods have been developed to help consumers determine the cut of a particular diamond. In general, these grades are: 

• Ideal
• Premium
• Very Good
• Good
• Fair & Poor

Which Grade of Cut Should I Buy?
 
Selecting the grade of cut is really a matter of preference. To make the best selection, you need to understand the various grades. Please note that the descriptions below are general guidelines. 

Ideal Cut
 
This cut is intended to maximize brilliance, and the typically smaller table sizes of these diamonds have the added benefit of creating a great deal of dispersion or 'fire' as well. Ideal quality diamonds are truly for the person who enjoys knowing that he has one of the finest things that money can buy. This category applies only to round diamonds. 

Premium
 
In the case of round diamonds, many Premium Cut diamonds have cuts that are the equal of any Ideal Cut diamond, though they often can be purchased at slightly lower prices than  Ideal Cuts. They are intended to provide maximum brilliance and fire. Like the Ideal Cut, these are also for the person who enjoys knowing that he has one of the finest things that money can buy. 

Very Good
 
These diamonds reflect most of the light that enters them, creating a good deal of brilliance. With these diamonds, the cutters have chosen to stray slightly from the preferred diamond proportions in order to create a larger diamond. The result is that these diamonds fall slightly outside of some customers' preferences in terms of, for example, table size or girdle width, though, in many cases many of the parameters of diamonds in this range will overlap with certain parameters of diamonds in the Ideal or Premium ranges. Generally, the price of these diamonds in slightly below that of Premium cuts. 

Good
 
Diamonds that reflect much of the light that enters them. Their proportions fall outside of the preferred range because the cutter has chosen to create the largest possible diamond from the original rough crystal, rather than cutting extra weight off to create a smaller Premium quality diamond. Diamonds in this range offer an excellent cost-savings to customers who want to stay in a budget without sacrificing quality or beauty. 


Fair & Poor
 
A diamond graded as fair or poor reflects only a small proportion of the light that enters it. Typically these diamonds have been cut to maximize the carat weight over most other considerations.